What is Type 4 Kinky-Curly Natural Hair?

 

The Hair Typing System was created by Oprah Winfrey's stylist, Andre Walker, in the 1990s and since has been widely adopted by the black natural hair community in our journeys to understanding and caring for our unique hair textures.

According to Andre's hair classification system, there are four different hair textures; Straight, Wavy, Curly, and Kinky- Curly.  African-American women mostly have type 4 hair which is also known as kinky hair and our unique hair textures require special care and specific products to keep our hair thick and luscious.  Type 4 hair can range from fine strands to coarse, as well as, have different ranges of curl patterns from tightly coily to zig-zag. 4a, 4b, and 4c hair may seem similar but they are different. They do have similar hair care tips however the shape is different and sometimes n to be treated d.

photo by blackhairinformation.com

 

TYPE 4A HAIR:
4a’s curl pattern is the most defined out of the 4 r. 4a hair has more of an “S” pattern. The circumference of the “S” curls is similar to a crochet needle. This type of hair is wiry or fine-looking. Under a microscope, 4a has few cuticle layers than other types of hair hence there is a less natural protection from chemical, environmental and mechanical damage. Because of the “S” curl pattern, people with this type of hair mostly have wash-go's.

How to care for 4a hair?
1) Co-wash or cleanse the scalp with a shampoo every week. Ensure that the clarifiers or shampoo has tea-tree or rosemary oils.

2) Use thick, rich and creamy ingredients such as shea and mango butter t keep the hair moisturized.

3) For length retention wear hairstyles such as wash-and-go's, twists-outs, or braid-outs.

TYPE 4B HAIR:
4b hair has a z pattern and a less defined coil pattern than 4a. Because of the z pattern, the hair strands bend at all different angles which makes it highly susceptible to breakage and dryness.  This type of hair is coiled tightly and may range from fine to coarse. 4b hair has a fluffier cotton appearance than all the other types of 4 hair. 4b hair shrinks to about 70% - 75% hence it would appear to be shorten than it is. This hair type can hold styles well just as well as 4a hair.

How to care for 4b hair?
1) Frequent deep conditioning and the LOC will combat dryness thus keeping the hair moist.

2) Pre-pooing with oils can help prevent the natural oils from being dried out from the scalp after shampooing.

3) Dry your hair with a cotton t-shirt or microfiber towel instead of a towel that will cause frizz, and tension and strip the hair of its natural moisture.

4) Protective styles such as twists and braids and low manipulation styles such as braid/twist outs, and puffs) would be great for length retention thus reducing the damage.

5) Protect your hair at night with a satin cap to prevent moisture loss and breakage.

TYPE 4C HAIR:
4c is said to be 4b’s twin however the hair is more tightly coiled with less definition. After 4c hair has been freshly washed there is no defined coiled pattern. So different styling techniques (such as braids or twists) and products (like gels and custards) will help to define the pattern. Type 4c hair can range from fine to coarse as well. Just like 4b hair, it will shrink to 70% – 75% thus appearing shorter than it is. It is the most fragile hair and deserves a lot of care.

How to care for 4c hair?
1) Use a de-tangling co-wash with slippery elm or marshmallow root to define the curls

2) A c gel or custard can help to define the curls

3) Styles such as braids, twists, and Bantu knots can help to define the hair pattern as well

4) Protect your hair at night with a satin cap to prevent moisture loss and breakage

5) Protective styles such as braids, twists, and buns will help with length retention because daily manipulation is avoided which will cause breakage

6) Braiding, twisting, or cornrowing the hair will help to stretch the hair

These are all the different hair types amongst us natural hair women. Your hair may not be one specific pattern but could be composed of two or all three different types. Hence, you can try a mixture of different tips to keep your hair healthy. Remember everyone’s hair is different so what may work for this 4c girl may not work for you. Hair charts assist us in learning about our hair but they are not the standards that everyone should subscribe to, they are merely there for guidance. Hence, try these tips but also listen to your hair needs for maximum growth, moisture retention, and overall health of your curls.

 

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